Good morning, world.
So I'm in Barcelona and I like it just fine- some beautiful things about this city- the windy streets, the food, the architecture. I know people are madly in love with this town but since yesterday was Memorial Day in America, I felt a little homesick. I often consider myself more of an international woman, but truth is- I am completely an American girl at heart. And moreover, a New Yorker. Yes I know you don't have to fall in love with every city, but I like to. Truth is, I'm discovering this city completely solo, and I can't help thinking it would be that much better with David or a good pal. Plus, this is a big, fun nightlife town and I suspect way more fun with said beau or good pal or ten. I do have a friend who lives here so was lovely to spend an evening with her catching up on life over a wonderful meal at Bar Brutal.
So to celebrate the holiday from here, I went to Starbucks, one of the biggest no no's for any seasoned international traveler- a slap in the face to the endless and delicious cappucinos and con leches you can get in a place like Barcelona. So to get my red, white, and blue up, I went there and ordered my favorite sugar free vanilla soy latte. You know, to honor my country and such. And to rebel against European gastronomy and superiority and bespoke, non-ironic artisanal culture. I do my part.
Then I had a work meeting in which I said not a word, because it was in full Spanish for well over an hour. I sat like a dummy and occasionally got texts from my art director who was in Madrid with the rest of the team to keep me updated. I suppose this could happen back in the States ps- but it was a funny way to spend a major American holiday, with not a single soul speaking English for over an hour. I did understand "pajamas" and "chihuahua".
After the meeting I took a walk to what is quickly becoming a bit of a go to neighborhood for me, L'Eixample, which is kind of like Barcelona's answer to Madison Avenue. Gucci. Prada. Dolce and Gabbana. You know the drill. To be honest, I'd be hard pressed to find much to buy clothing wise in this city- it is definitely not a fashion town and that's cool, but not as much fun for a girl like me who loves to shop. There is one amazing store here called Santa Eulalia, but why would I buy spendy haute like Chloe here when I can buy it in the states for cheaper (hello Barneys sale)? I did end up going into COS, which was surprisingly not crowded, and I purchased a cute little a line dress or two- and yes, they are from Europe, but we do now have COS in New York, so a little slice of home made me feel happy somehow, and finally- a retail fix. There are some lovely home stores here too, but if you are looking to show some retail restraint, Barcelona is a fine choice. It ain't Paris. I did score my favorite Nuxe perfume for 22 euros in a pharmacy near my hotel. I am a big fan of European pharmacies- they have the best products for cheap.
Tired from a long day of walking, trying to decipher Spanish, and constantly dodging tourists and louder than they need to be mopeds, I retreated to my hotel bar for a glass of Tempranillo. Two people sat next to me, an adorable guy and girl who were traveling together from New York- a girl with her best gay on their second big trip together, an annual thing they do even though they both have significant others. He was in HR at Barneys (not a bad best gay to have), she a pharma rep of injectable antipsychotics (yup). Immediately comfortable, we talked of everything and swapped subway stories, favorite New York restaurants, and tales from travel. I recommended a dinner spot for them and we drank a few too many together and proceeded to get a little loud, which earned us a few looks from the staff. It's funny while on vacation I almost never want to speak to Americans, but on this day, Memorial Day, I was so very grateful for the company. Plus I love New Yorkers and that's that- well everyone knows that. Even if the injectable drug lady was a Trump supporter. I got through that somehow. Her shoes were super cute and she was a major dog lover and she was quite funny. I know I should be sitting in cafes with the locals and eating grilled octopus, but last night found me happy to hang with the devil I know. I'm kind of tapas and Gaudi'd out. Sometimes when you travel it goes by in a blink- in this case, I feel like I've been here forever.
This city is not without considerable charms of course, but in most cases it smells worse than New York and the amount of tourists is absolutely grating. Today I make my way to the Picasso Museum- personal highlights here over the weekend were the Miro Foundation, which stands on a beautiful hilltop overlooking the city and also the amazing Bruce Davidson show at the MAPFRE, which I was happy to visit upon a a tip from a dear friend. Again- another nod to New York City- Davidson's stellar photographs of New York life just past the mid 20th century and beyond. His photos of Jews on the Lower East Side, street gangs of Brooklyn, and Harlem portraits took my breath away. Because you can't take the New York out of the girl now can you? (Cue the Popeye/Peter Tosh mashup of "I am what I am that I am"). I also loved a stroll through the Gracia neighborhood and its wonderful market and street life and cool vibe (though stinks McGee as mentioned above), but had less love for the Raval, which although a bit like Brooklyn in Barcelona, is also seedy as hell and full of cheap hookers and menacing men in doorways. Another nice neighborhood is the Born- felt ancient and old but nice and full of cafes and small shops. Oh and of course, Sagrada Familia, Gaudi's as yet unfinished church which made me feel better about the endless construction on the Brooklyn Bridge. It made a huge difference to buy a ticket in advance to this very famous and super trippy cathedral. And although it's untrue that the word "gaudy" comes from "Gaudi", the comparison is apt. I actually preferred Casa Mila somehow.
And I do think this city would be best enjoyed with company- I love to explore New York alone, but some cities are just more fun with pals, particularly places where sharing a meal is a stellar experience- the food here is MAJOR. It's fun to travel alone, but on this holiday weekend, I would have enjoyed the company as I missed my backyard BBQ, friends back home, and general American good vibes. It's true our country is in a world of shit right now, but it still smells better than Barcelona, and that's the truth. I know I have not been away long, but sometimes on a trip you get lost in a city and never want to leave, and sometimes you just miss home. I'm obviously on the latter tip, and hope you all had a fabulous Memorial Day, celebrating our fine and funky country, getting a little loud and rowdy with friends and family, and partaking in the first great weekend at the beach if that's your thing. If you need me, I'll be here in Barcelona for a few more days, trying to ignore the tourists (tons of Germans and Brits and less Americans) and finally embarking on the production I'm here to produce. Cause that's what's up this Vicky Cristina America kind of early Tuesday am in Spain. Yours, in Jimi Hendrix playing the Star Spangled Banner at Woodstock.- nothing better than that. And thank you troops, I salute you from afar. XO