Good morning, Monday. The weather in New York is a dream. I'm so happy to be home, even if it took me two and a half hours to get through customs at Kennedy on Saturday night. That place. Ugh.
So I thought I'd have more time to post from Mexico City, but the altitude was positively narcotic and any available moment I had was spent sleeping, or lazing about under the duvet watching American sitcoms like Will and Grace and Seinfeld with Spanish subtitles. But now that I've had some time to get to a more grounded place and be back on the home turf, I find myself missing Mexico a bit. On a scale of 1-10, I'm craving a quesadilla and an ice cold beer at about a 12.
So what else about Mexico City left an impression on me? The people. The people are so lovely and wonderful and friendly. And they have faces like poetry. Their faces are so full of character and life and soul that I often found it hard to look away. As a girl who grew up on a diet of Kerouac, it's hard not to imagine young Sal Paradise and Dean Moriarty rolling through those hazy and congested streets full of color, chaos, and music. There's a cacophony to this heady place (altitude yet again) that made my pulse race. I loved the feel of the crowded streets, the shops selling textiles, the old dudes selling everything from jaguar whistles to cheap silver bracelets. And though the colors are so bright and cheerful, there's a hazy filter on almost everything- smog perhaps but still gives you a dreamy, grainy sensation as you decide whether or not you want another beer (the answer is almost always si).
I am deeply inspired by big, bustling places and although our trip to the pyramids was stunning, I find myself wanting to wander the streets of a huge city forever, and Mexico City has so much to offer- from stalls selling fresh corn to the frenzy of the Zocalo to watching a dog training class in the local park. And staying in the lovely Condesa area with its stunning colonial architecture and leafy streets, I felt like I could be in any city in Europe. And since we were steps from La Roma, another cool part of town whose old buildings serve as a perfect backdrop for new cafes and boutiques full of young locals, we went exploring there for one brief afternoon and found so much goodness in a short span of time- I wish we had more time to explore this great little hood but we popped into a couple of places for a bit of retail therapy.
I enjoyed shopping at Goodbye Folk, a great vintage spot where I bought an old felt Stetson and my pal got himself a kick ass GnR tee shirt. The prices were far from cheap, but I was happy to find a hat that fit me perfectly for the fall, and one that I knew I would rock for chilly fall days. The peeps that worked there were super nice, and I loved the barber shop in the back of the shop, something I always fantasized about having in a store of my very own. They stock awesome motorcycle jackets, tees, and dresses all with a 70s rock and roll aesthetic. Plus I bet they give a great haircut.
We then went to a great store called the 180 Shop for new menswear and some great women's pieces, where I got to chat with Bernardo, the lovely owner of this great little shop that showcases local Mexican designers as well as make their own pieces right upstairs. He also runs a bed and breakfast in town, which I'm sure is a very cool place to stay. He asked me if I was from LA, which made me laugh as I was dressed in all black and pretty obviously a New York chick. We then chatted about New York, and how Mexico City is a bit like New York in the 90s, when the city still had some real edge but was on its way to the overpriced theme park it is today. He told me this would never happen in Mexico City, because "the people who live here like their city fucked up, and we like to break the rules too much to become too overly gentrified". I knew I liked him right away, and I like the fact that although the richest dude in the world is from Mexico City, it still is a place that enjoys a bit of the edge. I'm down with that. PS- there are of course, parts of Mexico that are not the safest, but I did not feel at any time unsafe there. To me, it felt like walking in any big city- keeps your eyes open and don't be dumb and flashy and you'll be bueno.
In terms of style in the city, I saw loads of goth types and girls in vintage, as well as more upscale types rocking Prada bags. I can't say that there's a set style to the people, but it's way more East Village than West Village, and way more scrappy downtown than uptown from the vibe I caught- like the perfect Mexico City playlist would include old Bowie, Lou Reed, and The Dead Kennedys, with maybe some Johnny Cash or Merle Haggard thrown in along with some dubby reggae mixed in with all of that Mexican magic. Actually, Mexico City feels a bit 1970s for me, probably because I have very distinct memories of my parents visiting there when I was a girl- part of me relates 70s FM radio to Mexico City, so I guess that's why I'm feeling that era for my homemade soundtrack.
Ooh, and I discovered an adorable designer called Carolina K., who is Argentinian and whose designs are all sourced by Latin American artisans and are fair trade. I adore her little dresses and the modern take on traditional folksy dressing. Plus she ships to America, so check out her site for more fun stuff. Very cute (see above).
Mexico City is one of those places I suspect I'll see again, if only because there's much of the city still left for me to explore. But its vibrance speaks strongly to my restless little gypsy soul, and the friendly and laid back vibe despite insane traffic and overcrowding has me craving more. And though I'm happy to be home, that big city left quite the impression. I'll see you again soon, mi amigo.
Cause that's what's up this big city life in the 212. Yours, in plentiful tacos and good vibes. Tomorrow, I'm gonna break you off some great jeans for Fall- you'll love 'em. XO