Good morning from Mexico. I am up early and trying to ease into the day by catching up with all of you.
I've been to Mexico before (Tulum), but Mexico City feels so different from the way I've always thought- there is no beach, and it's chilly outside, which you know makes me happy. We've had a mild summer in New York, but still, the chilly mountain air here feels really nice. And Mexico City is in the middle of the country, with no beaches like you would expect when coming here. It's basically a sprawling metropolis with loads and loads of different neighborhoods, and sirens that sound like they do in New York City, cause I just heard some go by downstairs.
I'm staying at a lovely hotel, the Condesa DF, in the very beautiful Condesa neighborhood which feels like Paris and boasts gorgeous Colonial buildings. When I travel, I love to visit cities- really huge ones- because I enjoy seeing how much they begin to feel like each other- driving here from our location scout, I felt shades of Tel Aviv, Miami or LA, and then, Paris. I am becoming fluent in city travel and understand the rhythm of such sprawling population hubs- I love all of the humanity, all of the pulsing and buzzing, all of the faces and places that are here because they fell in love, came for opportunity, or grew up in this fascinating place. There is simply nowhere I feel more at home than big cities- I like the density, the crowded bustle, the feeling that so much is happening at once. And I love how this city is surrounded by mountains and in a valley, giving it a somehow more grounding and humble feeling, even though it is so high above sea level. I have not seen a ton of the city yet but by car I couldn't help but notice the juxtaposition of the old and the new- there's amazing old storefronts with colorful lettering next to beautiful modern architecture.
Our first location scout yesterday had us at the Floating Gardens of Xochimilco, an old canal area which predates the Hispanic period and is a World Heritage site. Gondoliers take locals and tourists on boat rides in painted, brightly colored boats while swans look on. I can't talk about all of the stray dogs, ps. I want to put them all on a plane and take them home. (Imagine that- me and a plane full of Mexican fur faces. How will I explain that to David?) We ate canalside under a tent while a rainstorm was passing and had delicious quesadillas with mushroom and potato as well as cold beer, which we joked did not have quite the same soothe when it was only about 60 degrees outside. We watched as a couple cooked our fresh tortillas while dancing with each other to Nancy Sinatra's "Bang Bang", which was featured in "Pulp Fiction". Perfect.
Oh, and one thing I've noticed in the less than 24 hours I've been here- people are very affectionate, which I find absolutely lovely. I noticed that couples always seem to be walking arm in arm, men and women openly embrace, and I even saw one man pick up his lady in his arms when he came to greet her. I love this. There is a real warmth to the people here, and though I doubt our local producer is going to pick me up in his arms, his vibe is super friendly and warm and genuine. I like people such as these. In a place where poverty is a very real problem, seeing people love on each other and care for one another feels special and a glimpse into what every day life could be like here, even with very little money. But from what I'm reading on this city, it's one of the richest cities in the world, with an economy that has been sluggish the last few years, but with many insiders talking rebound.
And as I sit in this lovely hotel with Maelin and Goetz products (and a strange softcore porn film that is somehow automatically on your TV when entering the room), I feel lucky that I get to explore this city- from rich to poor and with all it has to offer- its smoky Mezcal, its mix of food (last night we had Japanese and it was delicious), and its general feeling of warmth and lives better lived in full color. I just popped another Gingko pill to help with the altitude, and I'm looking forward to seeing more of the city today as we scout an old cafe and go check out some pyramids. Life is good. I may bitch about packing and flying, but once I am wherever I am going, I am always so grateful to be there. Traveling is such an important part of my soul and I'm always left wanting to see and do more, in the best of ways.
I'm most interested in checking out some markets if I have time- I swear being in an open market is my version of Heaven- from Clingnancourt in Paris to the souk in Jerusalem to a flea market in Nashville, I love going to places where locals buy everything from fruit to crafts to whatever else. Markets are always full of possibilities. My father was also a big fan of flea markets, so somehow it always makes me feel closer to him to go to them. Coincidentally, he always talked about how much he enjoyed Mexico City for its art, adventure, and strong character. So far, he's absolutely right.
I sense this city has lots to offer and can't wait to see more. And that's what's up in this travel edition of my maven world. Yours, in urban journeys and seeing new things. XO