Hiya, Friday. Somehow I feel hung over yet don't recall having more than two glasses of champagne at an opening last night- perhaps it's the Korean food? I dunno, but I feel wonky and headachy and naus this morning, after a lovely evening with some good friends. For some reason, the whole Fashion Week thing seemed totally over the top this year. Though I have aboslutely no insider status in this regard, I watched on the (webbed) sidelines and found myself exhausted from the sheer volume of shows and parties and street sightings. But through my bleary eyes, I've managed to note my five favorite collections from the very packed week, so without further adieu, herewith is yer fiver- with cinq designers who nailed it on the runways:
Marc Jacobs- Oh, Marc. It's hard not to love you just because you're so awesome, but this collection you did (the actual Marc Jacobs signature line, not the Marc by Marc line) made me rediscover my passion for your wit and top notch referencing all over again. I feel dizzy from your 60's Carnaby Street/Edie Sedgwick looks, and my favorite thing is the mix of trends- bare midriffs, black and white, stripes, suiting all felt so very right now and so young and fresh. Marc Jacobs always captures a youthful spirit in his clothes- and since we're living in such wonked out times, is it any surprise he went back to the revolutionary youthquaking of the 60s for inspiration? And on an added note, I just DIE for the hair and makeup. So sexy and upswept and amazing. Love.
DVF- I mentioned earlier this week how much I loved this collection- Diane really hit on the wandering boho gypset thing in a wonderful way- I can't help but feel perhaps she was recalling her halcyon days at Studio 54 with Halston and the gang- that rust kaftan is so very Liza. I'm all about this collection and find it wearable, sexy without being vulgar, and utterly glamorous. Big snaps to DVF for making a collection that feels more Talitha Getty than uptown Tamara.
Narcisco Rodriguez- Oh. My. Gah. This collection. THIS COLLECTION. In a jaded world where everyone is a tastemaker, influencer, creative something slash something, Narcisco's turn on the Spring runways celebrated what it means to work hard, be a highly skilled tailor and visionary, and proved that there's still more than enough room for those that are true professionals. There was black and white, there was color, there were pants, suits, dresses, and something for absolutely everyone. Narcisco's brilliance lies in his altruism- sure he creates clothes that make him happy, but he makes clothes that women actually want to and can wear, and to me, these are clothes made to SELL. They are modern, sexy, feminine, strong, and easy all at once. I mentioned I'd pack up all of DVF's pieces for Spring in a neat suitcase en route to somewhere sultry, but Narcisco's collection I need not go anywhere to enjoy- these are clothes for right here, right now, and for the future as well. Utter perfection. Best collection of the week. Bravo.
The Row- If you're still thinking of the Olsen sisters as residents of a "full house" who do nothing more than skulk around New York City with outsized Starbucks lattes and voluminous wardrobes to match, think again. These girls are shaping up to be huge fashion talents- from The Row to their younger looks at Elizabeth and James. There's an ease to their luxe pieces and a whispered elegance that feels utterly masterful. I adore the relaxed trenches, neutral pallette, and standout pieces like the skinny strapped dress over pants look. The red suit is so very chic and the pajama silhouette of some of the pants suits are just fabulous and simply breautiful. I'd love to wear these pieces to entertain at home, to go to a gallery opening, or anything that calls for a relaxed, yet totally put together ease. That's what I love about American fashion and that's what I love about this collection- a casual elegance that is somehow altogether dressed up and just right.
Cushnie et Ochs- For young designers, these gals are doing it and doing it. I love their sexy and downtown pieces that are body conscious and very modern without being too fussy. Look for these girls to keep making inroads for modely types and other women looking to show off a fabulous figure at a cool spot downtown you (and me) probably don't even know about. Really some of the sexiest dresses on the runway, that somehow harken back to earlier iterations of Narcisco Rodriguez, oh and Kate Bosworth was on the front row, so you know these girls are speaking to pretty young things everywhere looking to be best dressed. And if you are a fan of the LBD, there's loads of options for you in this stellar collection. And I suspect your better half will love these looks as well. Very hot.
And as a bonus, I have to say that the one piece that stood out for me beyond any other on the runways this past week was Oscar De La Renta's striped ball gown. It spoke to the whole black and white thing all over the runways as well as the fascination wtih stripes most designers seemed to embrace. To me, this dress is such a standout- the shape of it, the modern striping which somehow makes it not fussy, and the confidence needed to wear such a piece. Oscar is simply an American design legend- to me he nails where we are headed and why we as a country can still be very much on top. Mr. De La Renta came from the Dominican Republic and became a great American success story byt working hard and making beautiful clothes. This particular piece is a traditional dress turned on its arse by the modern stripes and casual demeanor. I love it beyond belief and speaks to everything great- tradition, a nod to the future, and a confident elegance that is altogether so very US of A. Perfection. Mrs. Obama, please wear something of his perhaps as you march towards a second term. I'm thinking you would look beautiful in one of his fine dresses, or at the very least, this one here. For this, this is a dress to remember.
And that's what's up this beautful future forward Friday in the city. Enjoy your weekend. XO