Happy Birthday to my Husband and The Tete Offensive

Hiya Friday. Today is my love's birthday and we are off to Versailles and one last night in Paris.

I think it's fitting that on the eve of a seminal birthday, he spent his night eating calf tete. Yes, that's right. Calf head. In mustard sauce. Even the waiter told him not to get it, but David insisted since it was the specialty of the house. The anticipation of its arrival to our table was deafening. As I ate my duck tartare with fresh apple, I knew it was going to be an experience, while David wondered if a baby animal's head was going to arrive at our table with a well cooked brain, perhaps sizzling like a fajita.

It did not disappoint. The calf tete was the most vile thing I have ever seen (no head but nasty nonetheless) and David being David described each bite, vascillating between "this is the texture of bird mucus" vs "the awfulness of this dish does not disappoint" vs. "you know what's so surprising is how the gelatin just dissolves in your mouth" And then he ate almost all of it, while I could barely touch my rather amzingly well cooked cod in port sauce. After two weeks of orgasmic eating, it was quite something, and the only consolation was my observation of this being one for the memoirs, as in:

Who else gets to eat calf's head on the banks of the Seine under the shadow of a castle in Blois on their birthday? This meal will lovingly be referred to as "The Tete Offensive" from this day forward.

He had to agree. But still we made up songs in the car on the ride back to our hotel incorporating verse aboutnthe texture of tete and how it was probably having French existential thoughts in his stomach. And this is why I adore my tall drink of Evian of a husband- he always manages to make me double over in laughter, even on a pitch black country road in France with a belly full of tete.

And that was what was up on Thursday night in Blois. Happy happy birthday to the love of my life...I can assume tonight's final meal in Paris will be brain free. XO

PS we just woke up and as I wished him a happy birthday, we noticed his tongue is black with calf brains. Merde.

Paris Fashion Trend Alert a la Maven

Yo yo yo. I am a chatty chatelaine today but its my first day of relaxing at my hotel & am finally catching my breath after days on the go.

Wanted to share some trends I spied dans les rues in Paris. Three in particular stand out:

Bows on tees- a really cute look and very Sonia Rykiel and femmy, cheeky coquettish. Super cute with a pencil skirt and some ballet flats or kitten heels or sky high pumps (and red lipstick too).

Overalls in all sorts of fabrics- this look is not for everyone but it's darn cute if you are reedy and slim hipped. I dig the look with a cute blouse and flats.Think slim and chic and not Jed Clampett.

Annie Hall Parisian style- Had a hard time putting my finger on all the floppy hats and slouchy trousers but bought a fab fashion mag in town today (Flavor City- great editorial) which heralded the return of the wacky yet sexy wit of Annie Hall and 70s insired fashion in general. I am a big menswear fan and looks like a lot of Parisian "it" girls are as well.

C'est tout. I leave you with an amendment to my packing post, and that is- if you are traveling with your boyfriend or husband, have him pack a few extra sweaters for you to wear. Last night I wore David's charcoal grey v neck to dinner with a big double strand of pearls, some cropped trousers, and high heeled loafers and it felt super chic and very romantic. Hair in a messy updo a la Bardot is great for this look too- and don't forget to put on an extra spritz of French perfume after you get dressed so your scent will linger the next time he reaches for said sweater on the next chilly night.

Cause that's what's up this oft posted Thursday in the valley of Loire. XO

Serge and Jane...just because

Hi Thursday...can feel the vaction gears grinding toward reality...

Anyway, Serge and Jane. Sigh. Sexy couple to the max. I just finished reading his bio so had to post some pics of these two carnal creatures. And that's what's up this je vous aime Thursday in France. Off for a bike ride in the countryside...XO

The Art of Dressing in Paris: Ze Basics

Hi, again...back from the lovely Chambord and I am loving the cloudy and lovely Loire.

This picture is from the lovely Musee de Photographie in Paris, and it says it all to me in terms of what is chic here. I posted before my trip that genius Helmut Newton shot and here it is 2.0. It captures the genius of Parisian dressing- sexy but not gauche and slouchy yet so put together, though not victimesque in the LEAST.

If you are packing for Paris, you need not more than the following, and also check out the next post for some of my fav looks, none shot by me but they capture Paris (for me) from a style standpoint. So here's the pack list without further adieu, and you must trust me on these things (keep in mind I am here in the Fall with warmish days and chilly nights). Pepper with your own personal style goodness to make it your own- but this is the basic list:

A trench of any length- almost as de rigeur as the scarf. Everybody has one. Paris is all about classics dine your way, avec confidence bien sur.

If you don't like le trench, you must have a fab jacket or coat that transcends all of your looks and will be your key piece for day or night.

A good pair of cropped pants- black or khaki.

A pair of rock and roll skinny jeans like ACNE's great options.

Three black cashmere/cashmerish sweaters- lightweightish. One v and one crewneck and a cardi- other neutral colors work as well if you are not a black devotee.

A great black dress or two- sexy length or neckline for evening.

A dress or blouse in a pretty print when you tire of black.

Leggings baby leggings.

A great silk blouse/poet top to wear with boots and leggings.

A great white shirt- of button down style.

One menswear vest. Cute with the poet blouse or white shirt.

A fur or fake fur vest. Instant chic.

One black blazer- love a tux style version.

SCARVES. Nuff said. Include a leopard print.

One flat black boot a la riding boot style. A bootie is great too in a flat version.

A Repetto ballet flat. Perfect.

A pair of heels that won't make you cry. But only for short distances. The amount of walking in Paris is beaucoup.

Some great jewelry. Long necklaces, layered gypsy chains, and pearls if you've got 'em. Fake is fine. Gobs of gold chain linked numbers fab as well.

A fun felt hat that gets even cooler as it loses its shape- think floppy and not structured. A color would be cool here since you will be rocking so
much black. A newsboy could be cute too.

Oh and a large purse. You will need it for the flea markets and all your finds. You can find great hats there PS so maybe skip packing one.

That'll do it. Rotate les basics with some fun accessories and people will be asking you directions in French in no time. XO

PS- A slash of red lipstick is a great way to perk up the rather dirgeful city basics...and it's hot with messy, pulled back hair...think of it as the perfect accessory that is beyond easy to pack. XO again. This is France yo and I'm all for extra kisses.

Paris Fashion and its Essential Scarf

Hi Wednesday...I am in chateau country and loving it...later I will tell you about my transcendent meal last night in the middle of nowhere. Since you are all beyond bored with my Rimbaudian musings and romantic idealizing, let's talk fashion. French women are beyond chic as we all know. But it's effortless and never fussy. You roll out of bed, have a Gauloise and some coffee, and allez. That is all... If your idea of Paris is Carrie Bradshaw looking like dessert, sorry to break it to you, but that look is so much more fantasy than reality. So leave your clothing confections at home and focus on a steady stream of sexy dark hued basics and pack a million scarves. And learn to haphazardly tie them, or tie them to look like you merely tossed it on after kissing your amour au revoir as you saunter into your day. I got the feeling a Frenchwoman would rather die than not have a scarf knotted around her impossibly chic neck. It's as much a part of the culture as bread and brie...it's beyond a fashion statement and simply part of Paris's style vernacular. Oh and ze boys rock them hard too...protect yo neck, if you will. Oh and if it gets warm, simply knot that silky or wool thing around your purse. You simply can't have that scarf too far away from your person. It's not allowed... And that's what's up this perfectly knotted Wednesday in the Loire...I'm off to get my chateau on. XO

Pardonnez moi...

Hiya Monday. Here's the deal...I miss you all. I miss posting. But I am not embracing the norm as I saunter through Paris with my beloved in search of poets dead and alive. I am elated, inspired, and energized by this gorgeous town.

Paris is a giant, heaving under its own weight and density and clouds. If you could score it, the soundtrack would be Leonard Cohen's- sad, sexy in the style of noir, and poignantly achy. I have so much to share with you...I beg you to keep reading as I settle back into more of a routine. Writing is a discipline for me and right now I am a bit of a naughty schoolgirl (see the pic from one drunken Rosé infused night on the Pont Neuf...)

We are headed to the Loire Valley tomorrow for some more of la bonne vie. I wish I could post more...thinking of you all as I succumb to Paris's delectable, ornery soul...XO

(PS- Did you know Serge Gainsbourg was a Jew? Had no idea. Paris is full of surprises...)

This is Paris right NOW...

Bonjour! I am in the 12th, the Bercy. This is Paris, peeps. The fun is in the discovery...not the tried and true...the monuments are amazing but what's infinitely cooler are the neighborhoods you discover in the drizzle... We came to see everything I painstakingly researched in every book and website. But I say to hell with looking for the usual...I want the real Paris. And I am getting it....as Miles Davis plays and the schoolchildren chirp in the background. Screw the tourists. This is what I have dreamt of... Paris is everything and nothing you'd expect- much like love. It is one city by day and another by night. It is confusing yet revealing. It is posh yet peasanty. It will have you doing things you would never do (as in eating steak tartare when one is primarily a vegetarian). Everything looks and tastes better here. Much like love, you need to unwrap the layers to discover its truth. And I have always loved the truth. Its really about living and doing it with utter grace. I promise to get to some fashion soon. Its tough to find free wifi but I hope to find it again as I stumble around Paris fresh with Cupid's wounds. I love this city...that is all. (and I stumble not just with love but because my feet are a disaster. If you come here, it's all about your shoes. Choose wisely...) And that's what's haut this gorgeously dreary Thursday in lovely, sexy Paris. XO

In Paris...stay tuned as I get comfy

Bonjour mes cheries...

I am here. I have no wireless and no phone. But here's what I DO have:

EVERYTHING ELSE. AND I DO MEAN EVERYTHING.

Oh and I also have no makeup. Lost that en route...

Please tune in tomorrow for a long post. Au revoir from the Apple Store dans les catacombs de la Louvre...

XO

Next post will be from Paris...

Friday Friday...I am energized by your possibilities.

Hi, everybody. Today is the last day in the office before I take to the
skies and land in a city that has captivated my imagination since I was a
little girl. I am beyond excited and hope to blog about the trip while
there...that's my plan, anyway. Still, I need to embrace the vacation aspect
of this trip, so forgive me if there are lapses or AWOL periods throughout
the next two weeks. I most likely will be in a fashion and food coma.

What is it about Paris that has always enraptured me? Well, of course the
obvious things- art, charm, food, the bohemian lifestyle, fashion, history.
But it always went beyond those things for me- I simply knew it was a
beautiful place, and from an early age, I have always loved to be surrounded
by beauty- people, art, buildings. All of it. I grew up in Philadelphia, and
no offense to the town, but it ain't Paris.- and looking at pictures of
Paris while I was still in ponytails confirmed that. I've been to much of
Europe, but never Paris. I can barely contain myself...oh, and it's Fashion
Week. What better time to be there?

And speaking of fashion, I wanted to share this photo- many of you know it-
it's quite famous. It was shot by Helmut Newton in 1975 and shows the
classic YSL le smoking (the tuxedo jacket for the fashion newbies amongst
you) and always got me in the gut when I looked at it. I remain eternally
smitten by it. That's the thing about Paris- it's timeless, sophisticated,
and sexy. The dark Paris night of this photo is seductive, the model has
that effortless beyond chic thing happening, and that jacket is one of
fashion's most famous and coveted pieces. It never goes out of style. And
neither does Paris. That's why I love this photo- shot by an icon, showing
an iconic look, and of course shot in an iconic city. Christ I'm excited...

Cause that's what's up this can't wait till Sunday Friday in the MIA. Much
love to you all...I hope you tune in to my posts on the city of mes reves.
XO